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| Akbar 823 N. Charles St., 410-539-0944. Inexpensive. Back when Akbar was the only Indian restaurant in Mount Vernon, the descent into this clove-scented basement den seemed like quite the near-Eastern adventure. With a growing family of Indian eats in this neighborhood and beyond, both the original Akbar and its suburban satellites are now reliable old friends. But age hasn’t leached any of the fire from the lamb vindaloo, or made the smoky, tangy tandoori chicken any less addictive. Here, familiarity breeds contentment, and Akbar always delivers. Do: Go native with a zangy Kingfisher beer from India. Don’t: Become transfixed by the mirrored walls.
1809 Reisterstown Rd., Pikesville, 410-653-6868; 12240 Padonia Rd. West, Cockeysville, 410-666-4888. Inexpensive. Cockeysville/Timonium is out of control! First it gets a Bibelot, then a Graul’s supermarket. What next? An Al Pacino Cafe? Well, maybe better. Cockeysville has landed Cafe Isis, a slightly upscale version of its Al Pacino sister restaurants. Yes, we’re still talking about the divine Middle Eastern combination platter—ample portions of humus, baba ghanoush, and foul, with grape leaves, falafel, and a chunky Mediterranean salad. Yes, we’re still talking about the famous pizzas, including the Sharm El Sheq (salmon and caviar on a pie—who knew?). But the setting is a little more grown-up and large enough to accommodate families. It’s almost unfair! Do: Try the tabouli. Don’t: Despair if you’re not a Cockeysvillian—Al Pacino Cafes are popping up everywhere.
3811 Canterbury Rd., 410-366-1484. Moderate. Thank goodness this hidden treasure has reopened, with the same Tudor clubbiness that always made dinner here seem such a privilege. This time around, though, there’s a new twist: The menu is "Royal Indian." The subcontinent’s most familiar dishes are prepared with elegant reserve—our touchstone, the peas-and-homemade-cheese concoction called matar paneer, is creamy and delicately seasoned. And there are unusual choices as well, including grilled Bengali swordfish with fresh mango sauce. The dining room’s intimacy makes this a prime spot for murmured romantic confessions. If you can wait until the courtyard and fountain reopen this spring, though, so much the better. Do: Dress up because you want to, not because you have to. Don’t: Miss the valet parking; it’s a necessary luxury.
30 Trevanion Rd., Taneytown, 410-876-0237. Very expensive. Welcome to Fantasy Island, Carroll County division. Cross the red brick threshold of this restored Georgian manse-turned-bed and breakfast and prepare for an evening that convincingly belongs to another place and time. Diners who embark on each evening’s five-course prix-fixe dinner ($55 per person plus drinks and tip) enter a rarefied world of effortless gentility and artful cuisine. After cocktails in the bar, settle by the fire for chef Sharon Ashburn’s imaginative American cooking: a silky-sweet butternut squash soup with hints of curry and pear; tender monkfish in a lively herbal white wine sauce; oyster-and-cornbread-stuffed guinea hen flecked with sage and rosemary. Love-struck couples seeking a splurge need look no further: Dinner for two at Antrim with cocktails and a mid-priced bottle from the thoughtful wine list could nudge $200. As fantasies go, that seems downright reasonable. Do: Drive home carefully—it’s a good hour back to town. Don’t: Forget that you could always just stay overnight in one of the luxurious guest rooms.
7618 Main St., Sykesville, 410-795-1041. Expensive. This beautifully renovated train station on the main drag in Sykesville finally has a worthy inhabitant. Baldwin’s New American menu—think portobello mushroom bisque, Sambuca oysters, pork tenderloin with bourbon demi-glace, pan-seared whole trout—is straightforward and based on impeccably fresh ingredients. The dining rooms—one exposed brick, one Victorian—could not be more charming, and the deck outside, just a stone’s throw from the train tracks, will be one of next summer’s best. Do: Check out the Wednesday acoustic concert schedule. Don’t: Be embarrassed if the whistle of the passing freight train turns you starry-eyed.
340 N. Charles St., 410-727-7971. Inexpensive. With its predominantly pink decor and Asian pop music playing cheerfully in the background, this bright midtowner serves as an understated stage for some snappy Thai fare. The Gaeng goong, for example, blends shrimp, coconut milk, and fiery red curry to strike the perfect contrast between spicy and sweet, and the chicken Panang, with its fusion of red curry and crushed peanuts, is just hot enough. Even old standbys like pad Thai come alive here: The delicate rice noodles are done to a turn; the flavors of tart lime, salty fish sauce, and hearty ground peanuts deftly balanced. Do: Try the crisp, moist, and light chicken satay. Don’t: Wimp out—two-star hot’s a breeze.
1017 S. Charles St., 410-962-1554. Inexpensive. Beware, ye of meek and feeble palate—Banjara will bring you to your knees . . . and have you begging for more. This cozy Federal Hill spot serves up some of the boldest Northern Indian fare in town. Whether it’s the mellow, long burn of malai kofta—vegetable croquettes in creamy but spicy sauce—or the torrid curry punch of what might be the hottest lamb vindaloo around, this is the kind of fire that only a cold Kingfisher beer will extinguish. Banjara does have a softer side; finish with a cardamom-scented gulab jamun, a delicate, honeyed confection as refreshing as a cool bath on a hot day. Do: Soothe your tongue with a cooling yogurt-based mango lassi. Don’t: Order extra heat.1712 Aliceanna St., 410-675-8466. Moderate. We love the warmth and camaraderie of this family-run Fells Point bar/restaurant. We love the intimate dining room with its brick fireplace and soothing autumnal colors. Most of all, we love chef Tim Pritchett’s way with food, which bespeaks careful attention to detail—the zing of the smoked-pepper relish that accompanies a perfect salmon filet, the richness of the portobellos that add luster to a French onion soup, the kick of the red onion and tamarind sauce that graces today’s Chilean sea bass special. Home cooking was never this good. Do: Call ahead, if just to hear co-owner Alicia Horn recite the daily specials. Don’t: Miss the daily game sausage—anything from venison to alligator.
814 S. Bond St., 410-276-7141. Expensive. With all the charm of a Greek taverna—including a pre-prandial tour of the refrigerated case to pick your favorite whole fish for grilling—this newcomer had the earmarks of a winner from the day it opened. What becomes more apparent with each visit, however, is the continuing care lavished on basic ingredients. From the perfect zucchini to the freshest squid to the gorgeous fruits only in need of slicing for dessert, the accent is on quality. Do: Make reservations, or risk an endless wait. Don’t: Neglect to try one of the unusual Greek wines on this menu.
925 Eastern Ave., 410-234-1322. Expensive. "I can’t believe the layers of flavor," one of our testers marveled after a taste of Boccaccio’s buttery, fresh tomato marinara. But here at Little Italy’s most elegant slice of Northern Italy, pasta is only the beginning. We love the carpaccio—marinated tenderloin sliced paper-thin and covered with capers, mushrooms, and shavings of Parmesan. We can never pass by the veal Boccaccio, with its rich cream sauce infused with prosciutto and white wine. But for a real treat, order the soft shell crabs that appear as a seasonal special. Lightly fried and served in a delicate brown butter and wine sauce, they are exquisite. Do: Check out the mover-and-shaker crowd. Don’t: Hesitate to ask for advice when seeking a perfect match in Italian wine.
2 E. Madison St., 410-837-2973. Moderate. The pink-and-green color scheme might say Miami Beach, but the heady spice in the air of this elegant Mount Vernonite is Bombay all the way. There’s a light hand in the kitchen and a menu that brings hearty, fiery Northern Indian fare together with the more delicate flavors of the South. Try the dal dhera, a mellow blend of lentils and black beans, and navrathan korma, which mates green beans and carrots with creamy homemade cheese and thin-sliced almonds. Do: Impress your dream date with the special six-course Maharaja Dinner ("Good for two in love," the menu promises). Don’t: Let your creamy mango kulfi dessert melt.
924 N. Charles St., 410-547-8480. Expensive. There’s something about the Brass Elephant. Maybe it’s the tuxedoed waitstaff, the gilt trim, the Debussy filtering through the hum of subdued conversation. Or maybe it’s the menu—changing each day—of nouveau Northern Italian and vintage Continental fare. Who could forget a grilled pork chop stuffed with pancetta and smoked gouda in a pool of tomato demi-glace? Or the flair of a grilled New York strip with Vidalia onion, prosciutto, and red-and-yellow-pepper bruschetta? And why deny yourself desserts like the decadent "tunnel of chocolate," a veritable mousse-lover’s dream? Indulge. You’ll find nothing wanting. Do: Order from the award-winning wine list. Don’t: Rush. You’ll need three hours for four courses.1623 E. Baltimore St., 410-327-2445. Moderate. After you’ve had a rum-laced Calypso Punch, after proprietor Alfred Braznell has plied you with a sampling of wife Esmé’s hearty and intriguingly spiced curries and fried plantains, and after you’ve soaked in the convivial atmosphere of this chummy East Baltimore rowhouse, you’ll doubtless begin to feel you’ve died and gone to the Islands. And while you’re dreaming of balmier climes, don’t miss the heavenly fire of Esmé’s habañero hot sauce. It’ll zap the chill right out of your bones. Do: Ask what Esmé’s cooking today that’s not on the menu. Don’t: Hesitate to ask for a doggy bag — portions here defy a clean plate.
223 S. High St., 410-547-0820. Expensive. A charmer between a pair of Little Italy titans (Da Mimmo to the north, Boccaccio to the south), Caesar’s Den cuts a less flamboyant figure than its high-profile neighbors. But that’s why you’re here—to secret yourself in this seascape-studded dining room with the kitchen’s clean Neapolitan fare and graceful service. Regulars begin with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, and roasted peppers, but an antipasto of citrus-dressed calamari, shrimp, mussels, and clams is equally fetching. Find the vino of your dreams on the Wine Spectator award-winning list, then sample a simple grilled swordfish or the more exotic black fettucine with arugula—salty but good, and buzzing with garlic and pepper. Do: Take advantage of the valet parking. Don’t: Forget you’re still in Little Italy; yes, those are dispensers of grated cheese on every table.
28 W. Allegheny Ave., Towson, 410-337-0133. Expensive. Some meals you just want to savor slowly, course by course, mouthful by mouthful. At Cafe Troia, it’s always that kind of meal. The food is simple, unfussy, and delicately flavored, as if someone’s Italian mama has been slaving all day in the kitchen to prepare it for you. Start with the piatto misto—roasted red pepper, perfectly marinated eggplant, mozzarella, shaved prosciutto, arugula, and goat cheese. And it’s hard to resist the risotto ai frutti di mare, with chunks of fish, shrimp, calamari, clams, and scallops. If you’re an osso buco kinda guy, we swear by Troia’s, served with a side of grilled polenta. Do: Explore the compact but elegant wine list. Don’t: Miss the black-truffle risotto when it hits the specials list.
458 Forest Beach Rd., Annapolis, 410-757-1311. Moderate. What’s not to love about an overgrown club basement of a creekside restaurant where crab lovers line up at long tables to whack heaping piles of their favorite crustacean into sweet submission? Non-crab-heads, too, find much to crow about. Like the beautifully broiled rockfish, fresh and simple. And the crab cakes, plump and pretty. In summertime dine outside or in, but don’t go during soft-shell crab season, when Cantler’s dockside shedding tanks are in full swing: That’s a treat we intend to keep for ourselves. Do: Ask for directions; it’s not easyto find. Don’t: Pass up any opportunity to arrive by boat.
Pratt Street Pavilion, Inner Harbor, 410-234-3990. Moderate. There’s no such thing as an unsuccessful Cheesecake Factory. They could build one in a war zone and families would be lining up out the door. Why? It’s simple. The restaurant is well managed: Once you finally get your seat (at dinner time, it can take over an hour), the service is prompt and efficient. The menu is huge (we defy you not to find something you like), the food is interesting without being fussy, and the portions are plate-dwarfing. Plow your way through those sweet corn tamale cakes and a plateful of marinated skirt steak or that herb-encrusted salmon and you may never leave room for the outrageous cheesecakes. But it’s comforting to know they’re there. Do: Explore culinary multiculturalism. This menu has something of everything from everywhere. Don’t: Forget your doggy bag.
1026 S. Charles St., 410-752-3810. Expensive. Corks’s chef/owner Jerry Pellegrino hit the ground running; his kitchen exhibits the restrained, confident hand of someone who’s been around a lot longer than six months. When a grouper arrives modestly dressed with a clutch of near-mahogany-colored caramelized onions and a side of citrus-infused rice, it’s hard to believe that such an understated plate could pack so much flavor. Same for braised rockfish with tomatoes, olives, and couscous. Even the vinaigrette on the delightful haricots verts salad is something to rave about. The environment’s a match—simple, but elegant. Do: Take time to investigate the wine list; it’s a beaut. Don’t: Be daunted by that list’s length; you’ll be rewarded for your effort.
217 S. High St., 410-727-6876. Very expensive. Like chef/owner Mimmo Cricchio’s close friend Tom Selleck, whose autographed mug figures prominently in the lounge photo gallery, Da Mimmo is a big, broad, overactor of a place, long on exuberance, if not subtlety. Little Italy’s most operatic dining rooms boom nightly with couples and conventioneers treating their expense accounts to some vintage high-dollar Italian kitsch (yes, you did just hear "Volare" and "That’s Amore" back-to-back). Be forewarned: If you are seduced by your waiter’s hypnotic recitation of the specials—seafood ravioli soaking in lush lobster cream, massive veal tenderloins in velvety black truffle wine sauce—you’ll be rewarded with a suitably over-the-top tab. Do it anyway. Anything less wouldn’t be Da Mimmo. Do: Pretend to be a tourist and enjoy the free limo pickup from a downtown hotel. Don’t: Ask the waiter if that guy in the corner is really ex-O’s hurler Jim Palmer. (It is.)
801 Eastern Ave., 410-837-5500. Moderate. We’re still not quite sure what designers of this restaurant were thinking (note the enormous artificial tree rising up from the center of the dining room). But when it comes to the food at this Little Italy newcomer, we understand completely. It’s Italian with a touch of Northern California, rich with sun-dried tomatoes and parsley-flaked plate rims. For the more conservative, there are traditional dishes like eggplant Parmesan. For adventurers like you, the chef offers specialties like vitello contadina—veal scaloppini sautéed with garlic, red peppers, and artichoke hearts in a white-wine sauce. Super-terrific extra: The parking lot’s free. Do: Take a seat at the new lounge for a pre-dinner cocktail. Don’t: Climb the tree.
Donna’s at the Baltimore Museum of Art Art Museum Dr., 410-467-3600. Expensive. At this streamlined museum cafe, the menu itself is practically a work of art. With fanciful entrees like a chorizo-cornbread stuffed pork chop and hearty sides like roasted-garlic mashed potatoes, the BMA branch of the Donna’s empire offers post-nouvelle creativity in portions that eat like a meal. In summer, you can dine outdoors by the fountain, overlooking the Wurtzburger sculpture garden. In winter, you can enjoy the award-winning steel, glass, and birch interior of the cafe, designed to maximize diners’ outdoor view. But don’t get too distracted by the environs; keep your eyes peeled for the local and international celebs so often feted here. Do: Trust the server’s recommendations from the carefully thought-out wine list. Don’t: Make art-heist jokes.
25 Crossroads Dr., Owings Mills, 410-356-4147. Moderate. The open kitchen with copper splashboard and toqued chefs is the focus of this stylish Mediterranean westsider. The dining room is otherwise muted, a study in white and beige that all but absorbs the patrons in its glow. Until, that is, the food arrives. Vibrant red tomato coulis surrounding wood-smoked mussels shouts for attention. Seductive, too, is a baby spinach salad confetti’d with pink smoked shrimp, yellow corn, red tomato, and pale green avocado. Mellow osso buco, winter’s soul food, is less visually insistent but proves magnetic; it disappears, bite by bite. Do: Marvel at the air-handling system that keeps the grill smoke at bay. Don’t: Think it rude to laugh in wonder at the huge, white cooking implements vased on the bar.
Ellicott Mills Brewing Company 8308 Main Street, Ellicott City, 410-313-8141. Moderate. The area’s newest microbrewery is also one of the best; early batches from the Ellicott Mills Brewing Company boast highlights like a well-balanced Dunkel and a malty Helles. And the setting, a 1904 lumber warehouse in historic Ellicott City, provides a pleasant place to sample them. But the kitchen’s no slouch, offering imaginative variations on bar-food classics (turkey wings with Thai peanut sauce), suds-friendly stalwarts like burgers and sausages, and some exotic entrees spanning the animal kingdom (wild boar stew, buffalo steak, pan-fried venison). Do: Try the luxurious smoked duck breast in a tangy raspberry and green peppercorn dressing. Don’t: Order a Coors Light.
2200 Perryman Rd., Aberdeen, 410-272-0626. Moderate. You don’t have to be the outdoorsy type to enjoy dining here on the Bush River; the big porch is, after all, screened-in. You don’t have to be a steamed crab lover either, but we bet you will be by the time you leave. This is no-frills, elbow-to-elbow crab eating at its finest, with a pleasing view to boot. Do: Order your crabs in advance, or take your chances. Don’t: Be afraid to go during a thunderstorm. The sight of lightning crackling across the evening-darkened water is fantastic.
550 Light St., 410-347-9744. Very expensive. If an upcoming renovation to the city’s most beautiful dining room goes as smoothly as a recent transition to an entirely new kitchen staff, we have nothing to worry about. Dining at Hampton’s is as fine as ever. The new chefs bring a strong New American focus to the menu, treating seasonal, regional ingredients with utmost respect. Select from the excellent wine list, or better yet, hope that Jay is your waiter and ask him to pair a glass of wine with each course; you will not be disappointed. Do: Prepare to relax completely in this indulgent environment. Don’t: Miss the lamb trio entree—it is divine.
3244 Eastern Ave., 410-327-8365. Expensive. It’s big. It’s weird. It’s Haussner’s. Foodies might dismiss this septuagenarian ’kraut palace as a relic of a Baltimore so ancient and foreign to modern palates it seems nearly Martian (does anyone ever order the herring cocktail? the fresh pig knuckle? the imported sardine sandwich?). But the vast menu—a mixture of sturdy German fare, creaky Continental museum pieces, and indestructible comfort food—is not the reason that tourists and locals alike flock here every weekend. You go to Haussner’s, again and again, because there’s always some strange and wonderful piece of artwork still unseen, some new pie yet to try. Do: Drag every single out-of-town guest here, at least once. Don’t: Ask for reservations on a Saturday night; they are still not accepted.
806 N. Charles St., 410-752-0311. Inexpensive. Five years ago, we wouldn’t have known an aushak from a mantwo from a bowlawni. But now, thanks to the Helmand, we speak fluent Afghani, saying kaddo borawni with the best of ’em when we want yummy pumpkin with yogurt garlic sauce (sounds dicey; is heavenly), or mantwo when we’ve a yen for those perfect ravioli stuffed with ground beef and topped with a creamy split-pea and yogurt sauce. What superb meals we’ve enjoyed thanks to our new linguistic knowledge. Do: End with a cup of cardamom tea. Don’t: Hesitate to bring anyone here, from meat-and-potatoes types to vegetarians.
908 W. 36th St., 410-235-2326. Inexpensive. Holy Frijoles! is tiny, but take it in stride. This pint-sized Mexican emporium serves up everything—from its infamous nachos to its gargantuan burritos—at loss-leader prices and with service worthy of Speedy Gonzales. Go whole hog: a chile relleno or a platter of nachos heaped with cheese and black beans. Still have room for dinner? Order up a zippy chorizo sausage burrito topped with a dollop of sour cream and a fragrant fresh tomato and cilantro salsa, or a mammoth beef chimichanga with salsa verde. It’s so good you won’t care if you’re rubbing elbows with your neighbors. Do: Bring your own hooch; it’s BYOB.Don’t: Expect a lot of leg room.
Jeannier’s For all the formality of this oasis of classic French cooking, Jeannier’s feels comfortable. Maybe it’s because uptown regulars arrive on Saturday night dressed just enough to make it an evening out, or that the soft lighting doesn’t dampen the happy chatter. Old-school cooking is reliable here: Think chunky, mild duck pâté with gherkins and cocktail onions; quenelle de brochet Nantua—pike fish mousse—with shrimp and lobster sauce; butter-soft tournedos slathered in béarnaise. The service is attentive and stately. It all adds up to gracious—and delicious—dining. Do: Check out the informal pub for casual dining. Don’t: Leave without tasting the crème caramel.
Joey Chiu’s Greenspring
Inn/ 10801 Falls Rd., 410-823-1125; Yorktowne Plaza, Cockeysville, 410-666-9550. Moderate. Joey Chiu’s and its sister, Bamboo House, aren’t about take-out; they’re about ambiance. Intimate settings and unobtrusive service make these suburbanites perennial favorites. Make your way over the little bridge into Joey Chiu’s to savor their signature fresh seafood and mild, clean flavors. Crispy shrimp with walnuts in spicy orange sauce—a tantalizing blend of citrus, sweetness, and red-pepper heat—and standards like Peking-style sweet-and-sour pork, tangy with a hint of fire, will make you glad you stayed. Do: Snag a seat near the window for a garden view at Joey Chiu’s. Don’t: Miss the nearly delirious wood sculpture in the entryway at Bamboo House.
2410 Pleasantville Rd., Fallston, 410-877-7800. Expensive. Our visit to Josef’s a few months ago was purely social, and we were well into the main course when our chatter was interrupted with a call to slow down and savor the spaetzle. "Is it just me," one of our sixsome asked, "or has every dish been distressingly excellent so far?" By this telling anecdote and a sustained, glowing reputation, Josef’s indeed appears to do it all brilliantly, from the unalloyed excellence of the wiener schnitzel to the adventurous tournedos St. Lawrence—broiled filet medallions with artichoke hearts, asparagus spears, and zesty marchand de vin sauce. Truly worth the drive to Fallston. Do: Ask to be seated in the elegantly mahoganied back room. Don’t: Order wine by the glass—the choices are not recommendable. Select a good bottle instead.Joy America Cafe How does Peter Zimmer do it? Really, would you serve piñon-and-citrus sopai-pillas with lavender honey for an appetizer? I don’t think so. But it works. And could you concoct a dish that brings together tortilla- and lime-crusted chicken with chile-chocolate sauce and a poblano-potato tamale? Probably not—it was terrific. We adore the duck breast, whose lightly charred skin contrasts with a slightly sweet plum sauce and tangy lemon-infused couscous. Okay, so the three snails trailing across that same plate were a bit much—everybody deserves to go overboard once in a while. But Zimmer’s singular style remains celebratory and exuberant. Do: Prepare to be riveted by the sheer fantasy of these plates. Don’t: Under any circumstances miss the desserts.
Sudbrook Square, 48 E. Sudbrook Ln., Pikesville, 410-602-1441. Moderate. Candlelit and cozy it ain’t. Pikesville’s Jumbo Seafood is bright and colorful, and so is its take on Chinese standards. All the usual suspects are here, from General Tso to Triple Delight, all deftly prepared and in appropriately generous portions. Stay on guard for unexpected pan-Asian surprises such as crispy fried wontons drenched in a light peanut sauce sparked with the citrus tang of lemon grass and cilantro. Or try heartier steamed vegetable dumplings, filled to bursting with fresh cabbage and greens. So who needs candlelight? Do: Table-hop; it’s de rigueur. Don’t: Expect quiet conversation; the place is always poppin’.413 N. Charles St., 410-659-7600. Moderate. Irashai! The sushi chefs’ Japanese greeting and the dining room’s laid-back atmosphere are welcoming indeed; cheery waiters will settle you in with a hot towel for your hands and sake for your head. We like to begin with beef tataki, thin-sliced raw meat served with a light ponzu sauce, or perhaps the seaweed salad with sesame dressing. Purists find the sashimi hyper-fresh, and we swear by the Spider Roll—soft-shell crab fried in a delicate chestnut-starch coating, then rolled with cucumber and rice. Do: Sit at the sushi bar, to watch the masters at work. Don’t: Forget to keep an eye outfor celeb regulars like Oriole Brady Anderson. La Piccola Roma Big flavor is the name of the game at La Piccola Roma. Even the simplest dish—say prosciutto-wrapped shrimp—brings a treasure house of taste to the tongue. Oranges and pistachios spark the house salad. A roasted-red-pepper vinaigrette brings a playful counterpoint to smoked salmon and trout. The house’s most famous dish is its superlative mushroom risotto, but an evening’s special of spinach-stuffed trout with vegetable-flecked couscous and tomato beurre blanc will make you purr. Do: Try the Italian beers on the menu, but . . . Don’t: Think that Italian beer-making equals its prowess with wine.La Tavola The decor of this Little Italy newcomer might strike you as South Florida kitsch, but the mafalde alla Fiorentina (that’s curly-edged pasta sauced with spinach, fresh ricotta, pine nuts, and raisins) will have you licking your plate. We love the single-price concept of the menu—entrees are either $11 or $15, except for specials; instead of dithering over dollars, you can simply choose what you’d like for dinner. We suggest the bucatini with pancetta, red pepper flakes, and tomato, or the delicious grilled escalar. Do: Avoid Saturday nights, unless you prefer a crowd to good service. Don’t: Think you have to hit a local bakery for dessert; house-mades like the tiramisu are quite good.La Tesso Tana You could drop by for a quick meal on your way to the Meyerhoff—it’s right across the street. But this romantic Italian really deserves center stage in your evening. Begin with delicate calamari fritti with tangy marinara, or a fresh hearts of palm salad, piled high with greens. Move on to the vitello alla Francaise, perfectly crisp in a zingy wine sauce sparked with lemon and Parmesan. Or try chef Ed Rogers’s kicky spaghetti alla puttanesca, redolent with anchovies, calamata olives, and capers. Do: Make time for a post-dinner drink at the elegant bar. Don’t: Fret if you miss the concert. This is where you’ll spot hungry post-performance soloists.Le Bistro Midi At last, French without fear. As the name promises, Le Bistro Midi is indeed about bistro fare—simple, hearty, and blissfully unfussy—reborn in an elegant but appropriately casual Canton tavern. Think crusty bread, pâté, coq au vin, and, yes, French onion soup. Sample from a moderately priced wine list to wash down a rich and generous cassoulet loaded with lamb, sausage, and chicken, or an artful tart of caramelized onions. Do: Make tracks for their impressive Sunday brunch. Don’t: Worry about your pronunciation.
Liberatore’s Bistro/Liberatore’s Ristorante 9712 Groffs Mill Rd., Owings Mills, 410-356-3100; 9515 Deereco Rd., Timonium, 410-561-3300. Expensive. If we had to choose between these two siblings—had to, mind you—we’d go for Liberatore’s Bistro. But it’s not because the cooking’s any better. Both places dish up thoroughly enjoyable Italian specialties; both offer adorable paintings of winged putti to attend your repast. But at the bistro you can dine underneath a trellis beside a lovely mural that makes you dream, just for an instant, of the Tuscan countryside. That’s worth the trip alone. Do: Check out the delish "wedding soup"—salty, but good. Don’t: Despair when you realize the bistro is in a strip mall; just step through the door and enter the illusion.Linwood’s
Café-Grille The quietly elegant appointments bespeak a restaurant that doesn’t have to trumpet its greatness. Fabulous food? Exquisite service? It’s all in a day’s work for chef Linwood Dame, who puts this winning combination together with effortless grace. We love that you can drop in for a simple, perfectly grilled hamburger or begin an "event" evening with a luxe pan-seared foie gras; that the wild rice, dried fruits, and pecan accompaniment to your peppered venison loin will be as sensational as the main course. Are we gushing? You bet. Do: Check out the open kitchen, where chef Dame himself may be on view, preparing your dinner. Don’t: Be stingy; it’s a sin not to share.Loco Hombre Tex-Mex with track lighting, Loco Hombre goes South of the Border via Roland Park. This isn’t the usual smoky cantina bursting with cerveza-swilling rowdies and gooey cheese-topped burritos. The dining room is bright and open, the crowds are prosperous and kid-toting, and the eats are fresh, mild Southwestern revisionist, with pretty plates painted with fancy squiggles of salsa and nary a pickled jalapeño in sight. Try a soft taco rolled around tender achiote-tinged shrimp, or go further upscale with a serrano-chile-crusted salmon with red banana salsa and crème fraîche. Do: Hit the hot sauce if you crave the burn; Loco Hombre is on the mild side. Don’t: Balk at the $1.50 for the non-complimentary tortilla chips and smoky-sweet chipotle salsa. It’s worth it.M.
Gettier’s Orchard Inn Michael Gettier’s new place isn’t as intimate as his old cozy bistro in Fells Point, but it’s packing ’em in nonetheless. Three sprawling dining rooms and a lively lounge play host to the crowd, while the please-all menu roams from French-inflected heavy-hitters (sautéed duck breast and duck leg confit with port demi-glace) to Maryland classics (chilled crab claws and rockfish stuffed with crabmeat). The staff may be working out some service kinks, but it’s still a glittery new beginning for one of the city’s favorite chefs. Do: Chant "change can be good" if you find yourself missing the old M. Gettier’s. Don’t: Miss the house-smoked seafood appetizer.Maison Marconi A server who properly waits until both of us are finished before taking our plates. A chef who kindly agrees to broil an appetizer-sized portion of sweetbreads. It’s just this kind of courtly gentility that’s kept 78-year-old Maison Marconi a perennial favorite. Certainly, specialties like lobster Cardinale—lush chunks of lobster and potato baked in a velvety sherry sauce—hark back to an older, gentler era. But the sundae—French vanilla ice cream smothered in bittersweet chocolate sauce—is an ageless pleasure. Do: Dig out your best pearls for the occasion. Don’t: Forget your jacket, sir. It’s required.Martick’s It’s been a rough year for Morris Martick. When that giant sinkhole (now repaired) opened up near his fabled speakeasy-cum-bistro, access to Martick’s became even trickier than usual. This longtime Baltimore institution is the funkiest spot of history in town, and its crustily charming proprietor is a local legend. He also happens to boast some of the most reasonably priced French fare around—lovingly prepared standards like roast duck in cherry sauce, country pâté, and a dark, dense chocolate raspberry torte that’s sheer ambrosia—all of which he cooks and serves himself. Sinkhole be damned—Martick’s lives! Do: Ask Morris about the place’s history. It’s quite a tale. Don’t: Forget to ring the doorbell, it’s the only way you’ll get in.Matsuri With its minimalist lines and blond wood furnishings, Matsuri knows that the first step to pleasing the tongue is titillating the eye. In keeping with its Japanese aesthetic, each dish, too, is pretty as a picture. Whether it’s a wooden bowl of nabeyaki udon—noodles in a clear broth topped with delicate shrimp tempura and a colorful fish cake—or a jewel-like array from the sushi bar, you’ll be tempted simply to stand back and admire your dinner. But don’t dawdle too long; the crowds scrambling for seats at this Federal Hill charmer get restless. Do: Give uni (sea urchin) a chance; it’s fresh, sweet, and spine-free. Don’t: Obsess over whether to get udon, soba, ramen, or yakisoba noodles—they’re all good.McCafferty’s Cozily ensconced in a booth, we take in the celebrity caricatures that line the walls of this classic neighborhood chop house. A craggy slice of prime rib arrives looking like the coast of Maine, with one end snow-capped by its feathery mound of fresh horseradish. One taste brings back the memory of other fine meals here—a bone-in New York strip to die for, a bourbon-and-honey-glazed pheasant with chorizo stuffing. The waiter makes an easy joke as we dig in, content with a world that knows how to take good care of its inhabitants. Do: Save room if at all possible for the superb apple pie. Don’t: Leave without ogling the collection of signed baseballs out front.Morton’s of
Chicago Yeah, they’re gonna show you a humongous herbed chicken and a gargantuan slab of swordfish when they wheel over the dog-and-pony show that serves as menu at the new Morton’s. But remember why you’re here: beef. Big, beautiful, flavorful, glorious beef. We’ve never had a better porterhouse. We’re passionate for the prime rib. And we’re going back tomorrow for the filet mignon. As for the environs, the place is very Chicago, with a clean-lined, not-too-buttoned-down style that cossets its guests. But so what? We came for the beef. Do: Steel yourself for the sight of a48-ounce porterhouse. Don’t: Worry if you can’t clean your plate; it may be impossible. Mughal Garden Linger, chat, and enjoy the languorous tone set by Mughal Garden’s dark-wood-and-candlelight ambiance (mostly left over from a previous incarnation as the Harvey House) and intoxicating Indian fare. Even rapacious carnivores will be charmed by the bindarbani kofta, a fiery blend of vegetable rounds, cheese, and nuts, or the alu gobi, with tender chunks of cauliflower and potato set off by a spicy onion sauce. An appetizer of methi tikki—crispy and pungent fenugreek fritters—is a must, as is the bread, whether it’s the fresh-baked, airy onion kulcha or the hearty paneer kulcha, stuffed with homemade cheese. Do: Have a cocktail in the incongruously swank bar. Don’t: Miss the refreshing khir—rice pudding with nuts and raisins.Nam Kang The friendly, if imperious, folks at Nam Kang are on a crusade to help those unfamiliar with Korean cuisine figure it out. They insist on helping you order and fearlessly correct any faux pax. Relax, do what you’re told, and let them lead you into the mysteries of doo boo kim chi bok kum (an Everest-like mound of tofu surrounded by tart kim chee, tender pork, and vegetables). Nod vigorously if directed towards the barbecued eel or a massive hot pot of fiery seafood. Pay attention and, next time, you’ll know just what to order yourself. Do: Try the bulgoki—thin slices of grilled beef rolled with lettuce and spicy condiments.Don’t: Worry. It’s never too late to learn. Northwood’s Northwood’s has been a local favorite among Annapolitans for years. Deservedly so. Its Continental style, excellent service, and pretty pink dining room bring a rosy glow to diners’ candlelit faces. Appetizers such as creamy seafood bisque and cheesy French onion soup are especially good. The antipasto platter hit big with its combination of carpaccio, marinated mussels, escargot, scallop seviche, and baked shellfish. Entrees don’t reach quite so high a mark, but we did enjoy house specialties like beef Wellington in an unusually thick bordelaise sauce, and zuppa de pesce, loaded with shellfish in an herby broth. Do: Take note of the service—this is the way it should be. Don’t: Miss the $25.95 four-course dinner special or the wine list.Obrycki’s Your wife’s folks from Ohio are in town, and they want crabs: Don’t screw up. The place has to just ooze Real Baltimore Crabhouse—kind of stodgy, kind of strange, utterly reliable. Take ’em to Obrycki’s. The classy dining rooms will impress them, and the crabs will be hard and heavy. Don’t worry that the odd black-peppery seasoning is hardly the local norm, and forget that your steaming tray of husky jimmies likely hails from the Carolinas. When the folks get back to Columbus, they’ll tell all their friends, correctly, that they tasted Real Baltimore. Do: Wear the complementary bib; secretly, you’ll look cool. Don’t: Go on Valentine’s Day: Obrycki’s is closed during the winter months.Orchard Market and
Cafe We worried when new ownership took over our favorite Persian cafe earlier this year. We shouldn’t have. The duck fesenjune is still picture-perfect, only now the duck has its own lemon-scented presence to contrast with the dreamy pomegranate walnut sauce. The dried-plum lamb made us weep for joy with its tender braised lamb chunks bathed in tomato pomegranate sauce. If anything, the flavors are even more complex. The place looks—and the food tastes—as delightful as ever. Do: Take note of the curtain-of-water fountain when you come in. Don’t: Forget to bring your own wineor beer. Paolo’s If fine dining and mall-going seem like an unlikely mix, try Paolo’s. At the Harborplace location you can slip into a cozy table with a water view and dine on clever Cal-Ital cooking without battling food-court crowds. Uptown, Towson Commons shoppers might miss out on the harbor scenery, but they get the same black-pepper linguine with crushed tomatoes and roasted garlic, the same rustic mixed grill of peppery chicken sausage, shrimp, and beef with fire-roasted tomato sauce. By the time you’re spooning up your homemade tiramisu, you might even forget you’re in a mall. Do: Order a marvy martini to go with the tasty tapenade. Don’t: Be surprised by how good you look here—the lighting is fabulous.
Parkway Crossing Shopping Center, 410-661-0630. Moderate. There’s nothing fancy going on here. And the "redecoration" that took place earlier this year was more like spring cleaning. Thank God. The place looks shinier, but essentially unchanged. Which is fine by us; we depend on Perring Place’s timelessness, its ease and comfort, like favorite flannel jammies on a wintry night. A decent steak, a good piece of broiled fish, unfaltering calf’s liver, and a really good manhattan—these are the delights of this neighborhood restaurant. It’s not easy to do simple well; Perring Place never fails. Do: Shop—the framed prints are allfor sale. Don’t: Order the mashed potatoes if you don’t like instant. Peter’s Inn If you could design your own bar-with-food, Peter’s Inn might well be the result. The seating area is dark and chummy, the waitstaff is funkily egalitarian, and the ever-changing menu always fascinates. The ecumenical fare rotates between adventurous Mediterranean/ Middle-Eastern flavors (spicy Moroccan stew, velvety avgolemono soup) and updated classics (chicken potpie, spinach lasagna). You’ll always find a vegan option, and you’ll always find some old-fashioned red meat. Add three local microbrews on tap, and it’s no surprise to find the tiny dining room packed every night. Do: Check out the generous stock of mouthwash and other emergency supplies in the ladies room. Don’t: Eat the house’s trademark herb-and-red-pepper laced fresh-garlic bread and then kiss someone who hasn’t.Pierpoint It’s blissful to settle in at Nancy Longo’s sunny yellow bistro and contemplate the glories ahead over a glass of zinfandel. And how well that robust red compliments the earthy flavors of Longo’s homemade Eastern Shore rabbit sausage or the sulky tones of her smoked duck quesadilla. Likewise, we’re bowled over by the Moroccan lamb, whose exotic spices lend a hint of sweetness to the rich, rosy meat. The kitchen slips a notch or two with a dry roast poussin, but all is forgiven when praline-crusted bread pudding arrives, fresh from the oven and meltingly good. Do: Make reservations. The place jumps, even on Sunday nights. Don’t: Cry if they’re out of the eggplant layer cake; try the egg rolls instead.
Polo Grill Doubletree Inn at the Colonnade 4 W. University Pkwy., 410-235-8200. Very expensive. Okay, so sometimes the meal takes a back seat to the schmoozing. It’s not because the kitchen doesn’t give the high-rollers who pack the Polo Grill a run for their money. Rich, sherry-laced crab and sweet corn chowder inevitably steers conversation toward great hunks of backfin, while people-watching gets sidetracked by a mouthful of crisp red snapper and mashed potatoes studded with nuggets of lobster. Give it up: Fare such as this demands your complete attention. Do: Admire the service; it’s impeccable. Don’t: Stare at those power players two tables over.The Prime Rib Now that general decadence is back in style, the Prime Rib fits the national zeitgeist perfectly. Black walls, leopard-print carpets, and a neon-lit baby grand set the scene for an evening of vintage overdoing it. Certainly, have the prime rib—a single tender bite will make you a believer. And while you’re at it, heap on the mashed potatoes, beautifully buttery and with a hint of sour cream. Everything about this swank midtown steakhouse—from your perfectly dry martini to your whopping tab—screams "special occasion." But, hey, it’s the ’90s—come here any time. Do: Sport your most stylish duds. Don’t: Bring a vegetarian.Ransome’s
Harbor Hill Cafe With a vintage tin-ceiling atmosphere and throngs of cheerful yuppies at the bar, this gently rollicking tavern in gentrified Federal Hill promises an unpretentious fine time. You can go bar-eats classical and snarf up primo wings and crab cakes, or you can retire to a (slightly) quieter candlelit dining room for jumbo shrimp in a rich garlic sauce, a hefty, homey spinach lasagna with spicy fresh tomato marinara, or a rosemary-scented Tuscan grilled steak. Just be prepared to duel with the regulars for a table. Do: Bring quarters for the "Happy Days" vintage bubbling jukebox. Don’t: Worry about finding a parking place; this is the kind of corner bar with its own valet service.The Ruby Lounge The sexy space of choice for sipping designer martinis and noshing fusion goodies like green chile wontons and smoked trout quesadillas. Our favorite perch is the "peek-a-boo" table in the smoking lounge that overlooks the dazzling main dining room; you can have your clandestine rendezvous and never lose a beat of the action below. The changing art on the walls is almost as entertaining as the glam see-and-be-seen crowd, even when the food is not quite up to snuff. Do: Bring your attitude. Don’t: Forget to wear something black.Rudys’ 2900 We automatically love a place where finger bowls appear after the first course, where the waitstaff is as intent on your happiness as it is knowledgeable, and where the host is as charming as Rudy Paul, who takes a personal interest in the dining pleasure of every patron. Old-fashioned Continental favorites like frogs’ legs and roasted pheasant are prepared with flair. And fish—like a succulent grouper filet encrusted with crispy shoestring potatoes—is fresher than fresh and beautifully presented. When you’re weary of trendy fare and hipper-than-thou service, dress up, head to Finksburg, and prepare to be pampered. Do: Ask for help deciding among the daily offerings. Your waiter is a font of information. Don’t: Let that dessert cart roll by without sampling its wares.
600 Water St., 410-783-0033. Expensive. There’s nothing "nouveau" or "retro" or "heart-healthy" about it. This is good, old-fashioned, bad-for-you American cooking. Thick, tender steaks, marinated in butter. Supple asparagus, bathed in butter. Hearty baked potatoes with sour cream and, uh, butter. Ruth’s Chris does nothing unique, but it does everything well. From the attentive but unobtrusive service to the spectacular wine list—one of the best in town—to the famous melt-in-your-mouth meat, this is state-of-the-art steakhouse decadence. Do: Wander upstairs to the Havana Club if you’re in the mood for an after-dinner port and a cigar. Don’t: Schedule a cholesterol test anytime soon.Sisson’s Sotto Sopra This is what a downtown restaurant should be—stylish, noirish, and ever-so-slightly cooler than thou. Start with a martini—the bar can shake a mean one—and admire the chic decor while inspecting chef Riccardo Bosio’s divine antipasti—melt-in-your-mouth carpaccio, lightly fried calamari, fresh mozzarella with basil and olive oil. Then, select your wine from a well-appointed list and dive into modernist Italian creations like tender tuna encrusted with poppy seeds or homemade saffron fettucine with an osso buco ragout. Do: Try the famously delicate gnocchi. Don’t: Loosen your belt after dinner; it’s a no-no in the land of beautiful people.
Spike & Charlie’s Restaurant and Wine Bar 1225 Cathedral St., 410-752-8144. Expensive. Thanks to the Gjerde brothers, a great evening at the Meyerhoff or the Lyric can be preceded by an equally great meal. A sophisticated menu emphasizes the freshness of the ingredients ("the only freezer we have in our kitchen is filled with ice cream," it boasts), seasonal choices, and the brothers’ commitment to local cuisine. Think grilled shrimp with wild rice and pumpkin risotto, or grilled duck with sausage and fresh thyme. And do sample the accessible wine list: You can get two-ounce tasting pours. The only problem: Sometimes you have so much fun dining you forget about that 8 p.m. curtain. Do: Leave room for the house-made desserts. Don’t: Forget S&C’s on nights when you aren’t in a hurry.GreenSpring Station, 10751 Falls Rd., Lutherville, 410-821-1358. Expensive. It’s close quarters at Stone Mill, but the simple French fare served at this weekend-only Lutherville hot spot is worth bumping a few elbows. The menu (which changes every two months) offers a six-course prix-fixe meal for $40 and boasts hearty but elegant dishes such as grilled wild rockfish with lemon beurre blanc or an impressively tender Australian free-range lamb chop. On our last visit, we enjoyed the pan-seared swordfish, smoky and delicate over shredded cabbage stir-fried in raspberry vinaigrette. But it was the fall-off-the-bone tender poussin, roasted with herbs under its crisp skin, that stole the show. Do: Bring your own wine—the good stuff; this food deserves it. Don’t: Expect anything flashy. These are the basics at their best.Tersiguel’s The lace curtains and hardwood floors of this Ellicott City landmark have plenty of rustic charm. But it’s the Tersiguel family’s refined country-French fare that makes a visit worthwhile. Sup on fresh rockfish in puff pastry with salmon mousse or a bold rosemary-infused rack of lamb with fall yams. Cap the evening with an oh-so-sweet crème caramel or a flaky apple tart with house-made cinnamon ice cream. But don’t think such fare demands hushed tones and stuffy reserve; joie de vivre emanates from every nook and cranny of this festive restaurant. Do: Window shop along Main Street after dinner. Don’t: Be afraid to go casual—just ask for a table at the bar.Thai Landing We were a little nervous when our favorite Thai joint switched owners last February. Would the food suffer? More significantly, would Charlie still be there? If you’ve followed Best Restaurants issues past, you’re familiar with our abiding love for Charlie the waiter. You see, he is The Man. If you order the wrong combination of entrees, Charlie tells you. He steers your course deftly among the soft-shell crab with yellow curry, the creamy chicken panang, and the spicy Drunken Noodles with basil, diced chicken, and peppers. And, if he really respects you, he bestows upon you a hot pepper from his private reserve. Do: Try the savory lemon grass or coconut milk soups. Don’t: Let Charlie talk you out of four-star hot if you’re testing your mettle.Thai Restaurant There are other fine Thai restaurants in town (see above), but there is still only one Thai Restaurant. The original Waverly storefront dates from a time when no further clarification was needed. Now joined by a passel of assorted upstarts, the original endures in fine understated style, still a sentimental favorite for all the former Hopkins undergrads and faithful Charles Villagers who swear by the high-voltage lemon-grass buzz of the squid yum and the gentle fire of the coconut-milk-laced yellow curry. Do: Park in the hidden lot behind the restaurant. Don’t: Be shy about asking for extra steamed rice. With all this heat, you’ll need it.That’s Amore Tio Pepe You can’t help but adore a place that treats every partier—from bigwig businessman to prom-goer—as a special human being worthy of a good time. Add to this the famous Spanish flair—as in paella à la Valenciana, roast suckling pig, shrimp in garlic sauce—and you have a prescription for whatever ails you. Now nearly 30 years old, Baltimore’s favorite place to celebrate any and all occasions is still going strong. Do: Come prepared to give yourself over to the party spirit. Don’t: Even think about watching your waistline—that would be as hopeless as it is foolish.Windows We could complain about the nondescript decor. But why kvetch when the harbor view is so spectacular, and when, frankly, we’d eat in a barn to have at this mind-boggling array of seafood? Will it be the wood-fired rockfish with mushroom salad and wilted spinach, the seared grouper in mustard-seed jacket, or the pannee’d cod? We’ve already been seduced by pan-roasted mussels with pancetta. Something from the raw bar? Oh, but we love the sound of cashew-crusted mahi mahi . . . decisions, decisions! Do: Save room for dessert—you did save all those calories by ordering fish. Don’t: Worry if you’re a landlubber; that wood-fired grill makes for great steaks, too.1739 Fleet St., 410-675-5999. Inexpensive. True, Ze Mean Bean’s hearty Slavic chow is good any time you’re really hungry. But how much better to enjoy pierogies filled with creamy, slightly sweet farmer’s cheese, or a spicy kielbasa sandwich piled high with onions, green peppers, and sauerkraut on a wintry day, cozied up by the fireplace and sipping a hot cup of Sumatra. Soups are always a good bet at this tiny Fells Point coffee house and cafe, especially the borscht, a slightly sweet beet broth decorated with dollops of sour cream. But do try the vegetarian specials, as tasty as they are good for you. Do: Bring a book and linger. Don’t: Leave without a taste of that borscht.Zodiac Zodiac doesn’t just share an adjoining space (and a set of bathrooms) with the eternally trendy Club Charles, it shares the bar’s moody, art deco-ish, perma-hip style. There’s the exotic mural behind the restaurant’s bar, the aqua-blue vinyl chairs, the silver-bound menus. And there’s the food, which is definitely on the "nouveau" side. Don’t know a black quinoa from a garam masala sauce? Unfamiliar with "powerful voodoo barbecue sauce"? Then fasten your seat belts; Zodiac will take you on a wild ride. Do: Take in an after-dinner art film at the Charles Theater across the street. Don’t: Smoke your new Robusto with your martini: No cigars allowed.Zorba’s
Restaurant and Bar This unpretentious Greektown taverna is little more than a neighborhood bar/social club with a few posters of Anthony Quinn—Zorba himself—in action. But leave the Hellenic kitsch for the tourists and feast your eyes on Zorba’s true appeal: the gorgeous lamb, pork, and chicken that whirl on spits over a hardwood blaze at the back of the restaurant. Sip the house retsina and try not to gorge on fluffy taramasalata and marinated octopus while you stare, transfixed, as the cook grills your perfect whole rockfish, dressed only with lemon and olive oil. Zorba’s no-frills formula is simplicity itself—smoke and meat finished with a squirt of lemon. But it adds up to a passionate and memorable meal. Do: Come on a Saturday night for the weekend-only lamb special.Don’t: Fear the fierce and muddy Greek coffee. Order it metria, or semi-sweet, and slug it down. |
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