Akbar Restaurant
823 N. Charles St., 410-539-0944; 9400 Snowden River Pkwy., Columbia, 410-381-3600. Inexpensive.

We’d like to list the actual Indian names for the dishes we love at Akbar, but we’re always so busy enjoying ourselves that we forget to make note. Those vegetable fritters in creamy yogurt sauce, the spicy marinated chickpeas, the rich lentil soup, the tandoori-cooked chicken—it’s all too tasty to waste even a second memorizing a moniker. Luckily, the food is near universally good, so you can fearlessly point to a mellifluous name like shajehani biryani or palak paneer, confident that a fragrant feast will arrive shortly.

Why go: Dependable Indian fare in a charmingly civilized environment.

While you’re there: Order a cup of spiced tea for a sensual finish.

 

Al Pacino Cafe
900 Cathedral St., 410-962-8859, plus other locations. Inexpensive.

Problem: Mom wants adventure. Dad doesn’t want to be challenged. Your twentysomething sister wants a happening scene. Solution: Gourmet pizza with a Mid-East twist in a hip Mt. Vernon joint. From basics like pepperoni to exotics like tandoori chicken, Al Pacino will put just about anything on a pizza. If you’re not up for pie, try the Middle Eastern platter with humus, baba ghanoush, stuffed grape leaves, and more. Or dive into some spicy lamb schwarma. Cliché though it may be, Al Pacino has something for everyone.

Why go: To marvel at the amazing combinations of ingredients on your pizza.

While you’re there: Marvel at how well those ingredients actually get along.

ambassador.jpg (48465 bytes)
From the Ambassador Dining Room: Shrimp Adrak
served with tamarind chutney, roasted red pepper,
and asparagus.

Ambassador Dining Room
3811 Canterbury Rd., 410-366-1484. Inexpensive.

When a pretty plate of shahi korma—tender lamb braised in a slightly sweet cream sauce studded with nuts and raisins—arrives via tuxedo-clad waiter, you’ll understand why the Ambassador touts its Indian cuisine as "royal." The menu combines the familiar vindaloos and tikka masalas with the more unusual—grilled shrimp Adrak marinated in lime juice and chili and served with tamarind chutney, or salmon Javeri with a sesame-cornmeal coating and spiced tomato sauce. Rajas will consider themselves well served.

Why go: To enjoy the decorous service, seated inside or out in the garden when weather permits.

While you’re there: Try alu chaat, a summery potato salad infused with the flavors of black salt, roasted cumin, and asafetida.

 

Antrim 1844 Country Inn
30 Trevanion Rd., Taneytown, 410-756-6812. Very expensive.

We worried that the big doings here this year—a dining room addition and an expanded kitchen—might detract from the sheer romanticism of this historic, antique-filled country inn. But all is well. The intimacy of the original dining rooms has been preserved, the new dining room carries on the gracious theme, and food and service uphold previous high standards. With fireplace roaring in the background, we enjoyed a velvety butternut squash soup, a tenderloin stuffed with Stilton cheese, and a gorgeous sea bass in broth laced with fennel and green olives.

Why go: To work your way through a stylish spread of silverware as you dine on a four-course, prix-fixe dinner.

While you’re there: Ask to sit between the portraits of Ulysses S. Grant and Robert E. Lee. Where else will you find such estimable dining companions?

 

Baldwin’s Station
7618 Main St., Sykesville, 410-795-1041. Expensive.

A whistle stop at this 1883 Queen Anne-style train station in Sykesville is a low-key treat. Owner Stewart Dearie focuses on the basics, delivering New-American cooking with judicious flair. A hearty autumnal tomato soup with roasted shallots is enriched with a dollop of gorgonzola; rosy filet mignon slices are ringed with a just-sweet-enough cherry reduction. Both menu and wine list are brief but carefully composed, desserts are homemade, and service is graceful. Plus, real trains rumble by at regular intervals; nab a seat by the window (or on the deck outside in warm weather) for a front-row view.

Why go: For an evening of subtle pleasures.

While you’re there: Enjoy dinner and Wednesday night folk and jazz concerts in the main dining room.

 

Ban Thai
340 N. Charles St., 410-727-7971. Inexpensive.

This unpretentious downtowner is the restaurant of choice for Baltimore’s homesick Thais. Dishes here offer clarity: You’ll taste the galangal and coconut milk in the tart and creamy kai tom kha; and enjoy the interplay between lemongrass and chiles in the yum ped yang, a mild, crispy duck appetizer. Ban Thai offers reliable takes on stalwarts like pad thai or red curry chicken. But don’t be afraid to head into new territory. Your meal will always be that perfect combination of tingly hot and flavorful.

Why go: To enjoy great Thai food in simple surroundings.

While you’re there: Push yourself a little: Two-star heat is do-able, three stars is downright fun.

 

Banjara
1017 S. Charles St., 410-962-1554. Moderate.

When in need of mood enhancement, head down to this soothing Indian nook in Federal Hill. Something about Banjara’s dim lighting, soft sitar music, and able, all-but-invisible service has a calming effect on the spirit. Add to that the tangy lemoniness of the lentil soup, the smoky richness of the tandoori chicken, and the creamy comfort of the navrattan curry, and you’ll forget all your earthly troubles. At least for an hour or so.

Why go: An Indian sanctuary in the middle of Federal Hill.

While you’re there: Don’t miss the wondrous condiments, especially the mango chutney.

 

Birds of a Feather
1712 Aliceanna St., 410-675-8466. Moderate.

This tiny Fells Point bar and restaurant—with all of 13 tables—gives new meaning to the phrase "mom ’n’ pop shop" by adding a talented son into the picture. Owners John and Alicia Horn serve guests while Alicia’s son, chef Tim Pritchett, prepares his contemporary New-American takes on traditional dishes like French onion soup (here called onion-mushroom consommé), plus classics-in-the-making like shrimp and scallops in a Merlot reduction with wilted greens. There’s a salmon special each day, and usually such exotica as emu tenderloin in bourbon demi-glace or sautéed flying fish with a tamarind sauce.

Why go: For a Fells Point bar experience with upscale eats.

While you’re there: Try one of the 120-plus single-malt scotch options.

 

The Black Olive
814 S. Bond St., 410-276-7141. Expensive.

This nouveau Greek psarotaverna (literally, "fish tavern") proves that less sometimes is more. From the delicate grilled squid on skewers—served buck naked, not even needing a sauce to seduce you—to the impeccably fresh grilled fish dressed with capers, lemon, and olive oil, the Black Olive has confidence in our discerning palates. And judging by their success since a 1997 opening, we are worthy of their faith.

Why go: For the best fish in town, prepared simply and expertly.

While you’re there: Take a lively tour of the refrigerated display case with co-owner Stelios Spiliadis.

 

Boccaccio
925 Eastern Ave., 410-234-1322. Very expensive.

Boccaccio is a model of consistency. The courtly service, the clean, elegant atmosphere, and above all, chef Giovanni Rigato’s inspired Northern Italian cooking are always of the highest caliber. On our last visit, we indulged in appetizers of dainty Prince Edward Island mussels in butter and lemon, and air-dried Swiss beef served with creamy goat’s milk cheese and nutty arugula. Delicate medallions of veal tenderloin atop woodsy oyster, shiitake, and chanterelle mushrooms were perfectly rare; a thick grouper filet in a simple butter and lemon sauce couldn’t have been fresher. We still had room to manage zabaglione—mixed berries in a light Madeira and custard sauce. And all was delivered with the typical charm of the Boccaccio waitstaff.

Why go: For consistently refined Northern Italian cooking.

While you’re there: Don’t just admire the grappa bottles in the bar—try one!

 

Bombay Grill
2 E. Madison St., 410-837-2973.
Moderate.

Seems like we’ve been coming here forever, and why not? The service is solicitous, the atmosphere romantic, the food reliable. It’s reassuring to know that the "special lamb"—tender lamb tandoor-cooked with a dry masala—always tastes special, and that the navrathan kormah—a melange of fresh vegetables and homemade cheese—is laced with the same complex cream sauce you remember. Your waiter may suggest you start with the bread basket—an assortment of Indian baked delights. Do it. This is comfort food with subcontinental cachet.

Why go: For classic Northern Indian food in a lovely setting.

While you’re there: Go for kheer—Indian rice pudding.

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