| Akbar
Restaurant 823 N. Charles St., 410-539-0944; 9400 Snowden River Pkwy., Columbia, 410-381-3600. Inexpensive. Wed like to list the actual Indian names for the dishes we love at Akbar, but were always so busy enjoying ourselves that we forget to make note. Those vegetable fritters in creamy yogurt sauce, the spicy marinated chickpeas, the rich lentil soup, the tandoori-cooked chickenits all too tasty to waste even a second memorizing a moniker. Luckily, the food is near universally good, so you can fearlessly point to a mellifluous name like shajehani biryani or palak paneer, confident that a fragrant feast will arrive shortly. Why go: Dependable Indian fare in a charmingly civilized environment. While youre there: Order a cup of spiced tea for a sensual finish.
Al Pacino Cafe Problem: Mom wants adventure. Dad doesnt want to be challenged. Your twentysomething sister wants a happening scene. Solution: Gourmet pizza with a Mid-East twist in a hip Mt. Vernon joint. From basics like pepperoni to exotics like tandoori chicken, Al Pacino will put just about anything on a pizza. If youre not up for pie, try the Middle Eastern platter with humus, baba ghanoush, stuffed grape leaves, and more. Or dive into some spicy lamb schwarma. Cliché though it may be, Al Pacino has something for everyone. Why go: To marvel at the amazing combinations of ingredients on your pizza. While youre there: Marvel at how well those ingredients actually get along.
Ambassador Dining Room When a pretty plate of shahi kormatender lamb braised in a slightly sweet cream sauce studded with nuts and raisinsarrives via tuxedo-clad waiter, youll understand why the Ambassador touts its Indian cuisine as "royal." The menu combines the familiar vindaloos and tikka masalas with the more unusualgrilled shrimp Adrak marinated in lime juice and chili and served with tamarind chutney, or salmon Javeri with a sesame-cornmeal coating and spiced tomato sauce. Rajas will consider themselves well served. Why go: To enjoy the decorous service, seated inside or out in the garden when weather permits. While youre there: Try alu chaat, a summery potato salad infused with the flavors of black salt, roasted cumin, and asafetida.
Antrim 1844 Country Inn We worried that the big doings here this yeara dining room addition and an expanded kitchenmight detract from the sheer romanticism of this historic, antique-filled country inn. But all is well. The intimacy of the original dining rooms has been preserved, the new dining room carries on the gracious theme, and food and service uphold previous high standards. With fireplace roaring in the background, we enjoyed a velvety butternut squash soup, a tenderloin stuffed with Stilton cheese, and a gorgeous sea bass in broth laced with fennel and green olives. Why go: To work your way through a stylish spread of silverware as you dine on a four-course, prix-fixe dinner. While youre there: Ask to sit between the portraits of Ulysses S. Grant and Robert E. Lee. Where else will you find such estimable dining companions?
Baldwins Station A whistle stop at this 1883 Queen Anne-style train station in Sykesville is a low-key treat. Owner Stewart Dearie focuses on the basics, delivering New-American cooking with judicious flair. A hearty autumnal tomato soup with roasted shallots is enriched with a dollop of gorgonzola; rosy filet mignon slices are ringed with a just-sweet-enough cherry reduction. Both menu and wine list are brief but carefully composed, desserts are homemade, and service is graceful. Plus, real trains rumble by at regular intervals; nab a seat by the window (or on the deck outside in warm weather) for a front-row view. Why go: For an evening of subtle pleasures. While youre there: Enjoy dinner and Wednesday night folk and jazz concerts in the main dining room.
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| Ban Thai 340 N. Charles St., 410-727-7971. Inexpensive. This unpretentious downtowner is the restaurant of choice for Baltimores homesick Thais. Dishes here offer clarity: Youll taste the galangal and coconut milk in the tart and creamy kai tom kha; and enjoy the interplay between lemongrass and chiles in the yum ped yang, a mild, crispy duck appetizer. Ban Thai offers reliable takes on stalwarts like pad thai or red curry chicken. But dont be afraid to head into new territory. Your meal will always be that perfect combination of tingly hot and flavorful. Why go: To enjoy great Thai food in simple surroundings. While youre there: Push yourself a little: Two-star heat is do-able, three stars is downright fun.
Banjara When in need of mood enhancement, head down to this soothing Indian nook in Federal Hill. Something about Banjaras dim lighting, soft sitar music, and able, all-but-invisible service has a calming effect on the spirit. Add to that the tangy lemoniness of the lentil soup, the smoky richness of the tandoori chicken, and the creamy comfort of the navrattan curry, and youll forget all your earthly troubles. At least for an hour or so. Why go: An Indian sanctuary in the middle of Federal Hill. While youre there: Dont miss the wondrous condiments, especially the mango chutney.
Birds of a Feather This tiny Fells Point bar and restaurantwith all of 13 tablesgives new meaning to the phrase "mom n pop shop" by adding a talented son into the picture. Owners John and Alicia Horn serve guests while Alicias son, chef Tim Pritchett, prepares his contemporary New-American takes on traditional dishes like French onion soup (here called onion-mushroom consommé), plus classics-in-the-making like shrimp and scallops in a Merlot reduction with wilted greens. Theres a salmon special each day, and usually such exotica as emu tenderloin in bourbon demi-glace or sautéed flying fish with a tamarind sauce. Why go: For a Fells Point bar experience with upscale eats. While youre there: Try one of the 120-plus single-malt scotch options.
The Black Olive This nouveau Greek psarotaverna (literally, "fish tavern") proves that less sometimes is more. From the delicate grilled squid on skewersserved buck naked, not even needing a sauce to seduce youto the impeccably fresh grilled fish dressed with capers, lemon, and olive oil, the Black Olive has confidence in our discerning palates. And judging by their success since a 1997 opening, we are worthy of their faith. Why go: For the best fish in town, prepared simply and expertly. While youre there: Take a lively tour of the refrigerated display case with co-owner Stelios Spiliadis.
Boccaccio Boccaccio is a model of consistency. The courtly service, the clean, elegant atmosphere, and above all, chef Giovanni Rigatos inspired Northern Italian cooking are always of the highest caliber. On our last visit, we indulged in appetizers of dainty Prince Edward Island mussels in butter and lemon, and air-dried Swiss beef served with creamy goats milk cheese and nutty arugula. Delicate medallions of veal tenderloin atop woodsy oyster, shiitake, and chanterelle mushrooms were perfectly rare; a thick grouper filet in a simple butter and lemon sauce couldnt have been fresher. We still had room to manage zabaglionemixed berries in a light Madeira and custard sauce. And all was delivered with the typical charm of the Boccaccio waitstaff. Why go: For consistently refined Northern Italian cooking. While youre there: Dont just admire the grappa bottles in the bartry one!
Bombay Grill Seems like weve been coming here forever, and why not? The service is solicitous, the atmosphere romantic, the food reliable. Its reassuring to know that the "special lamb"tender lamb tandoor-cooked with a dry masalaalways tastes special, and that the navrathan kormaha melange of fresh vegetables and homemade cheeseis laced with the same complex cream sauce you remember. Your waiter may suggest you start with the bread basketan assortment of Indian baked delights. Do it. This is comfort food with subcontinental cachet. Why go: For classic Northern Indian food in a lovely setting. While youre there: Go for kheerIndian rice pudding. |