| The
Brass Elephant 924 N. Charles St., 410-547-8480. Expensive. The Brass Elephant looks particularly grand these days, its woodwork gleaming, its fireplace surrounds polished to a high shine. The tuxedoed service matches—attentive yet unintrusive. And the food, prepared by chef/co-owner Randy Stahl and newcomer chef David Rudie, is better than ever. Blow your caloric budget on foie gras and you won’t be disappointed; it arrives perfectly seared and cleverly sided with strips of fried parsnip. Escargot is wrapped in phyllo and topped with garlicky mayonnaise. The mixed grill unites beast and fowl—duck, quail, lamb—with a wonderful potato tart, but when you taste the perfectly sautéed scallops over capellini with smoked salmon and wild mushrooms you’ll likely hear violins playing sweetly in the background. Why go: To pretend that this is your fabulous Charles Street home and that, by your beneficence, the public may enjoy it. While you’re there: Indulge in a Chesapeake Oyster, a fanciful chocolate bivalve filled with chocolate mousse.
Braznell’s
Caribbean Kitchen Alfred and Esmé Braznell’s modest island of tropical cheer on an otherwise lonely stretch of East Baltimore Street can be a true Caribbean adventure, from the piped-in steel-drum music and the rum-based Calypso Punch to the spicy rhoties—hearty stuffed meat pies—and curried goat. Expect home cooking, Trinidad-style—unfussy, stick-to-your-ribs fare fired up with Esmé’s killer home-brewed habañero sauce. And expect a few rough edges, too: The service could have that unhurried quality you might remember from your last trip to St. Bart’s. Relax, have another Red Stripe, and give in to the torpor. Why go: It’s the closest East Baltimore gets to the islands. While you’re there: Ask Mr. Braznell to brew you up a Dark and Stormy—dark rum and ginger beer.
Caesar’s Den Reliable is the word for Caesar’s Den. This unassuming Little Italy resident consistently turns out reasonably priced, very good Italian food. We love the polenta appetizer smothered in sautéed wild mushrooms. And we’d dive into a plate of the squid-ink pasta with jumbo shrimp and tomato cream any day. The veal with artichokes is a crowd pleaser par excellence, and the wine list affords wonderful examples of the Italian vintner’s art. Add warm, efficient service, and you’ve got a great anytime-for-any-reason restaurant. Why go: To remember just how satisfying old-fashioned Italian cooking can be. While you’re there: Ask about owner Guido DeFranco’s next wine dinner; you’ll surely want to make a reservation.
Cafe Madrid This Iberian newcomer in Fells Point’s Latin quarter boasts an indulgent Spanish-Continental menu and an incorrigible pair of hosts—chef Pepe Guitiperre, who may insist on sitting down for a chat, and equally flamboyant maitre d’ Antonio Aybar. It also boasts Baltimore’s most complete tapas menu. A chilled fino, a garlic-laden crock of shrimp, a hearty slice of Spanish tortilla, and plenty of crusty bread will fill you up in true Madrileño style. There’s paella and gazpacho and even roast suckling pig (on request), too. But order the combination tapas for two and you may go no further. Why go: Tapas, tapas, tapas. While you’re there: Try out your high-school Spanish.
Café Troia From the creamy walls and low lights to the solicitous service and, most of all, the luxurious Italian specialties, Café Troia is balm for the soul. Dip that thick grilled Tuscan bread in the ambrosial wine and garlic sauce that the plump little mussels bathe in. Dig your spoon into the marrow of that meltingly tender osso buco. Savor the earthy funghi on the veal marsala. And don’t skip the cannoli—Troia’s take on this ubiquitous confection may convert even the non-fans among us. Why go: For pure and simple Italian standards done elegantly. While you’re there: Wash down that cannoli with a glass of that sweet Tuscan elixir, Vin Santo.
Cantler’s
Riverside Inn Looking for the land of pleasant living? Pick a warm day and head for Annapolis, where, at the end of a winding one-lane road (call for directions), you’ll find it: the quintessential Chesapeake seafood shack lazing by a woody stretch of Mills Creek. There are crabs at Cantler’s, of course, and long tables for mass feasting. But watermen unload other treasures, year ’round, from winter’s oysters and steamers to spring’s shad roe to summer’s soft-shells and autumn’s rockfish. Sit on the breezy deck, choose your fish from the chalkboard, order a platter for those greaseless fries and fresh-shredded cole slaw, and crack a cold one. Unless you ask otherwise, just about everything will come dusted with cornmeal and deep-fried. Sometimes, that’s the way it should be. Why go: For a no-frills fish fry, a crab feast with all the trimmings, and the proper setting to enjoy it. While you’re there: Don’t poke the crabs in the shedding tanks.
From Charleston: medallions of grilled venison in port wine sauce with a sweet-potato flan. Charleston The husband-and-wife team of Tony Foreman and chef Cindy Wolf have proved formidable competitors on the urban dining scene. With a perfectionism that shows in every detail, from plating to wine service to ambiance, they’ve made their Southern-accented restaurant a hot spot for foodies and scenesters alike. The wine list is excellent, as is the seasonal menu that incorporates Carolina dishes like seafood perlau with modern creations like crisp-skinned duck breasts with Madeira poached pears, shiitake mushrooms, and pecan rice. Don’t miss the cheese plate, perfect to pair with a sturdy red wine. Why go: To discover your inner Southerner. While you’re there: If goat-cheese-stuffed plum tomatoes are on the menu, order them immediately.
Corks
Waiting tables is acting, to a degree. Sometimes at this table you’re entirely subservient and non-conversational, and at this other table you’re gregarious and joking around. Which is the real you? Perhaps neither." Start with a gorgeous piece of fish or a handsome cut of meat, add a well-constructed sauce and a seasonal side, and consider yourself done. Such restraint is the beauty of this charming South Baltimore sleeper, especially when combined with a knockout wine list—a wonderful, well-priced collection, with many intriguing selections from small California vintners. Happily, the staff has tasted much of it and can steer you on a blissful path. Why go: For the fun of talking wine with people who know. While you’re there: Join the cigar smokers for a post-prandial puff on the enclosed back porch.
Da Mimmo It isn’t for everyone, but fans love chef Mimmo Cricchio’s flamboyant den of famous faces, huge portions, and hefty price tags. His is an over-the-top style that reflects his Sicilian heritage. But dig into his center-cut veal chop or fork your way through his famed lobster tetrazzini and you may find yourself singing his tune. Remember that those tantalizing specials are much more expensive than the regular menu, and avoid weekends if a raucous crowd, haughty service, and less-than-perfect plating will ruin your mood. Why go: For the operatic flashiness. While you’re there: Gawk at the signed photo gallery of visiting celebs and world leaders.
Due You can get fancy at Due, the Italian sister of Linwood’s Cafe—as in a beauteous veal chop accompanied by balsamic sweet-potato mash, or any number of designer pastas. But Due also does basics like pizza and spaghetti marinara better than most. Pizza Margherita—your classic tomato, basil, and mozzarella pie—rises to new heights here, and fried calamari is the best we’ve had: crispy puffs of cloudlike batter surrounding tender squid. And the osso buco? Due’s is somehow both hearty and suave, a richly satisfying nod to rustic Tuscan home cooking. Why go: For Linwood Dame’s consistently high-quality take on Tuscan fare. While you’re there: Share a pizza as an appetizer.
Edo Sushi Like your mom’s chicken soup, Edo Sushi’s agemono udon is good for whatever ails you. This steaming pot of delicate broth—laden with thick udon noodles, slices of Chinese cabbage, mushrooms, pickled radish, and fish cake—encourages slurping to the last drop. Top it with tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) or delicate shrimp tempura and you’ve got a banquet in a bowl. This is not to say you should eschew Edo’s lovely sushi, bounteous chirashi, or its fabulous shumai, but it makes a wonderful starting point for working your way through the rest of the menu. Why go: For very competent Japanese cooking in the suburbs. While you’re there: Try the refreshing green-tea ice cream.
ESPN Zone Sports fans hardly need our word to convince them that the world’s first ESPN Zone hit a grand slam in its flagship Power Plant location. Where else can you watch literally hundreds of sporting events on monitors both great and small, get your mug on national TV for a few seconds during the weekly Monday Night Blast broadcast, and fill up on bountiful theme-restaurant food that actually isn’t half bad? Only here, for now (Zone number two is due to open in Chicago, number three in New York City). So belly up for a rack of barbecued ribs or a burger and a brew, Baltimore, and enjoy this one-of-a-kind experience while it lasts. Why go: It’s cheaper than a Ravens ticket. While you’re there: Blow your allowance on the 10,000 square feet of video and live-action games upstairs.
|
Peter Wood
Marc Dettori
Mary Miller